I'm trying to rescue a neglected fish tank. I've been trying to figure out how much extra hydrochloric acid to add to my water change for my fish tank to soften the water a little and reduce the pH a little, so it peaks at about 7.6 at the end of the day. Though I don't I want the KH to drop below about 3dKH. Also note that I don't want to change the pH by more than 0.1 per water change.

I would like to know how to measure/calculate/estimate the $\ce{pK_a}$ and how to apply that knowledge to find out the resulting balance between pH and carbonate hardness of the fish tank after some of its buffer has been used. See my spreadsheet for my calculations so far.

• API freshwter master test kit to test for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
• API KH&GH test kit to measure degrees carbonate and general hardness.
• pool acid with 370g/L $\ce{HCl}$ on its label ( 10.15 mole/L )
• Tap water with
• pH 7.2
• 3 dKH
• 4 dGH
• science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer
• Fish Tank
• Tank volume 55L
• 18 months old
• filter is sponge and mini K1 bio media before a 700L per hour pump going to a spray bar at the top of the tank, that looks a lot like this one
• substrate is shovel of dirt from back yard covered with aquarium sand
• some wood pieces that have been in there for about 3 months.
• planted with java swords and java moss
• 17 pacific blue eyed fish
• only using mechanical and biological filter. No charcoal in use.
• pH 7.8 at the end of the day. Possibly as low as 7.6 in the morning before the grow lights turn on. (Nitrification of ammonia reduces pH, and photosynthesis increases pH)
• 5 dKH
• 20 dGH
• Ammonia less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrite less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrate 5 to 20 ppm depending on how I hold the test to the colour chart
• Water change size is 1 bucket ( 9L )

I've mixed 50ml of the pool acid in to 250ml of tap water to make it non-fuming to be easier to work with, and am calling this "diluted" acid. So far I've only been adding 1 to 2 ml of the diluted acid to the water change, because there are fish in the tank and I want to take it slow. I use a 1ml glass eye dropper with 0.25ml markings on it to add the diluted acid to the bucket of water.

Seeing that this amount of added acid is not changing much, I've been trying to figure out how much more I need to add to have the desired effect. After doing some initial calculations in a spreadsheet I see that 2ml of my diluted acid is not enough to use up the buffer in the 9L bucket of tap water let alone have much of an effect on the fish tank.

1. test the tank water for pH and KH morning and evening to determine the current min and max values. Remember fish, bacteria and photosynthesis all affect pH. Also test for ammonia, nitrate, and when in the mood also test nitrites and GH. Though since this is a well established tank I often skip the nitrite test.
2. start filling the 9L bucket with tap water.
3. (sometimes) test pH, KH, and GH of water fresh out of the tap. But I'm lucky and my tap water is fairly consistent quality. Though I suppose this means they treat the heck out of it.
4. while filling the bucket I add science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer according to the directions on the bottle.
5. while still filling the bucket I have been adding 1 to 2ml of the diluted (1.7mol/L) HCl with a glass eye dropper with 0.25ml markings with about 5mm between each marking.
6. (most times) once the bucket is full, I test the bucket water for pH, and KH
7. I leave the bucket to rest for at least a few hours, or overnight to give it time to reach equilibrium.
8. Once the bucket has rested, I test the bucket water for pH, KH, and sometimes GH. This is a very important step, that I take extra care to perform correctly.
9. if the bucket water pH is below 6.2 I would discard that water and start again. I would consider a pH of 6 ok except this is the minimum reading on my test kit, and a pH below 6, even well below 6, is indistinguishable from a pH of 6 with my test kit.
10. if the fresh water is safe, I siphon enough water and muck out of the tank so 9L can be added (yes this is a 2nd bucket), and tip that into the garden bed.
11. slowly pour the bucket of fresh water into the tank. This takes at least 3 minutes because if I pour any faster I disturb the sand substrate too much or am in danger of dislodging one of the plants. This is due to the downward flow pattern of pouring. By this time the filter pump has pushed almost 35L through itself (700L per hour), maintaining a good stirring rate in the tank.
12. test tank water for pH, and KH.
13. wait a few hours and test pH and KH again.
14. the following day test pH and KH morning and night

I'm trying to rescue a neglected fish tank. I've been trying to figure out how much extra hydrochloric acid to add to my water change for my fish tank to soften the water a little and reduce the pH a little, so it peaks at about 7.6 at the end of the day. Though I don't I want the KH to drop below about 3 dKH. Also note that I don't want to change the pH by more than 0.1 per water change.

I would like to know how to measure/calculate/estimate the pH and how to apply that knowledge to find out the resulting balance between pH and carbonate hardness of the fish tank after some of its buffer has been used. See my spreadsheet for my calculations so far.

• API freshwter master test kit to test for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
• API KH&GH test kit to measure degrees carbonate and general hardness.
• pool acid with 370g/L $\ce{HCl}$ on its label ( 10.15 mole/L )
• Tap water with
• pH 7.2
• 3 dKH
• 4 dGH
• science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer
• Fish Tank
• Tank volume 55L
• 18 months old
• filter is sponge and mini K1 bio media before a 700 L per hour pump going to a spray bar at the top of the tank, that looks a lot like this one
• substrate is shovel of dirt from back yard covered with aquarium sand
• some wood pieces that have been in there for about 3 months.
• planted with java swords and java moss
• 17 pacific blue eyed fish
• only using mechanical and biological filter. No charcoal in use.
• pH 7.8 at the end of the day. Possibly as low as 7.6 in the morning before the grow lights turn on. (Nitrification of ammonia reduces pH, and photosynthesis increases pH)
• 5 dKH
• 20 dGH
• Ammonia less than 0.25 ppm
• Nitrite less than 0.2 5ppm
• Nitrate 5 to 20 ppm depending on how I hold the test to the colour chart
• Water change size is 1 bucket (9L)

I've mixed 50 ml of the pool acid in to 250 ml of tap water to make it non-fuming to be easier to work with, and am calling this "diluted" acid. So far I've only been adding 1 to 2 ml of the diluted acid to the water change, because there are fish in the tank and I want to take it slow. I use a 1 ml glass eye dropper with 0.25 ml markings on it to add the diluted acid to the bucket of water.

Seeing that this amount of added acid is not changing much, I've been trying to figure out how much more I need to add to have the desired effect. After doing some initial calculations in a spreadsheet I see that 2 ml of my diluted acid is not enough to use up the buffer in the 9 L bucket of tap water let alone have much of an effect on the fish tank.

1. Test the tank water for pH and KH morning and evening to determine the current min and max values. Remember fish, bacteria and photosynthesis all affect pH. Also test for ammonia, nitrate, and when in the mood also test nitrites and GH. Though since this is a well established tank I often skip the nitrite test.
2. start filling the 9L bucket with tap water.
3. (sometimes) test pH, KH, and GH of water fresh out of the tap. But I'm lucky and my tap water is fairly consistent quality. Though I suppose this means they treat the heck out of it.
4. while filling the bucket I add science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer according to the directions on the bottle.
5. while still filling the bucket I have been adding 1 to 2ml of the diluted (1.7mol/L) HCl with a glass eye dropper with 0.25ml markings with about 5mm between each marking.
6. (most times) once the bucket is full, I test the bucket water for pH, and KH
7. I leave the bucket to rest for at least a few hours, or overnight to give it time to reach equilibrium.
8. Once the bucket has rested, I test the bucket water for pH, KH, and sometimes GH. This is a very important step, that I take extra care to perform correctly.
9. if the bucket water pH is below 6.2 I would discard that water and start again. I would consider a pH of 6 ok except this is the minimum reading on my test kit, and a pH below 6, even well below 6, is indistinguishable from a pH of 6 with my test kit.
10. if the fresh water is safe, I siphon enough water and muck out of the tank so 9L can be added (yes this is a 2nd bucket), and tip that into the garden bed.
11. slowly pour the bucket of fresh water into the tank. This takes at least 3 minutes because if I pour any faster I disturb the sand substrate too much or am in danger of dislodging one of the plants. This is due to the downward flow pattern of pouring. By this time the filter pump has pushed almost 35L through itself (700L per hour), maintaining a good stirring rate in the tank.
12. test tank water for pH, and KH.
13. wait a few hours and test pH and KH again.
14. the following day test pH and KH morning and night

Edit: lets be specific and simplified and start with

• a 9L bucket of tap water
• with 3dKH (0.0005349585373 mol/L) $\ce{CaCO3}$
• and starts with a pH of 7.2 or 0.00000006309573445 mol/L of H+
• and add 1ml of HCl at 1.7 mol/L

Does that mean that for the bucket of water before adding the acid $${ pKa = 7.2 - log_{10}(\frac{0.0005349585373}{0.00000006309573445}) = 3.271679877 }$$

If so, how can this info be used to predict how much of the $\ce{CaCO3}$ is used when the HCl is added and what the new pH will be in the bucket after equilibrium is reached? Nevermind the significant digit issue.

• API freshwter master test kit to test for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
• API KH&GH test kit to measure degrees carbonate and general hardness.
• pool acid with 370g/L $\ce{HCl}$ on its label ( 10.15 mole/L )
• Tap water with
• pH 7.2
• 3 dKH
• 4 dGH
• science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer
• Fish Tank
• Tank volume 55L
• 18 months old
• substrate is shovel of dirt from back yard covered with aquarium sand
• some wood pieces that have been in there for about 3 months.
• planted with java swords and java moss
• 17 pacific blue eyed fish
• only using mechanical and biological filter. No charcoal in use.
• pH 7.8 at the end of the day. Possibly as low as 7.6 in the morning before the grow lights turn on. (Nitrification of ammonia reduces pH, and photosynthesis increases pH)
• 5 dKH
• 20 dGH
• Ammonia less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrite less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrate 5 to 20 ppm depending on how I hold the test to the colour chart
• Water change size is 1 bucket ( 9L )

• API freshwter master test kit to test for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.
• API KH&GH test kit to measure degrees carbonate and general hardness.
• pool acid with 370g/L $\ce{HCl}$ on its label ( 10.15 mole/L )
• Tap water with
• pH 7.2
• 3 dKH
• 4 dGH
• science products aquarium science chlorine neutralizer
• Fish Tank
• Tank volume 55L
• 18 months old
• filter is sponge and mini K1 bio media before a 700L per hour pump going to a spray bar at the top of the tank, that looks a lot like this one
• substrate is shovel of dirt from back yard covered with aquarium sand
• some wood pieces that have been in there for about 3 months.
• planted with java swords and java moss
• 17 pacific blue eyed fish
• only using mechanical and biological filter. No charcoal in use.
• pH 7.8 at the end of the day. Possibly as low as 7.6 in the morning before the grow lights turn on. (Nitrification of ammonia reduces pH, and photosynthesis increases pH)
• 5 dKH
• 20 dGH
• Ammonia less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrite less than 0.25ppm
• Nitrate 5 to 20 ppm depending on how I hold the test to the colour chart
• Water change size is 1 bucket ( 9L )