Timeline for Solvents adequate for dissolving overheated polyethylene terephthalate glycol-modified (PETG) residue?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
13 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feb 28, 2020 at 13:48 | comment | added | Technophile | @oliver. OK, thanks. I would expect to see the first bit of staining within the first hour. My "hours to weeks" comment was about the interval I might expect between nozzle cleanings. A useful cleaning method would have to be capable of removing filament residue that had been on the nozzle for hours to weeks. | |
| Feb 28, 2020 at 9:12 | comment | added | oliver | @Technophile: yes, until I see the first residue on the nozzle. | |
| Feb 28, 2020 at 0:56 | comment | added | Ed V | If the removable nozzle is small enough, what about putting it in a test tube with potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate or magnesium nitrate and heating until the oxidizing salt melts? Basically just a fusion for maybe 30 minutes or so. Then dissolving off the crust and some light abrasion. Basically, the gummy bear method. Just a thought. | |
| Feb 27, 2020 at 20:23 | comment | added | Technophile | what exactly is it that you are referring to with "Say, one hour"? Perhaps the time until you see the first residue on the nozzle? | |
| Feb 26, 2020 at 18:07 | comment | added | oliver | @Technophile, I can only talk about my experience with the specific filament brand I have bought and with my specific 3D printer. Maybe that material variety of PETG is impure and degrades faster or at lower temp? Maybe my printer overheats? | |
| Feb 25, 2020 at 16:23 | comment | added | Technophile | Thanks for the temperature clarification! Re the 1 hour time duration, please clarify, seems likely we are talking about different things. Print duration often exceeds an hour (I did a 16 hour print recently, hardly exceptional). It seems to me that at least the average 3D printer enthusiast is unlikely to remove and heat the nozzle to red hot after every print, or interrupt prints every hour, so I must have misunderstood. | |
| Jan 17, 2020 at 21:35 | comment | added | oliver | As to getting 'overheated': weeks is certainly not true for the sample of PETG filament I have had. Don't know anything about its purity of course. Say 1 hour seems realistic to me (gets slightly brownish after a decent print job). | |
| Jan 17, 2020 at 21:32 | comment | added | oliver | I admit that "red heat" was a little vague. What I meant was the one you barely see at the lower end of the temperature range. From the capabilities of my hot air gun (causing about the same 'redness' as my gas torch) I'd estimate that to something around 500°C, but of course not sure because I didn't check it with the thermal camera. | |
| Jan 16, 2020 at 23:40 | comment | added | Technophile | I see for melting point "melting point of brass (900 to 940 °C, 1,650 to 1,720 °F)" and the temperature of red hot brass "525C -- 975F -- Red heat, visible in the daylight, 581C -- 1077F - Red heat, visible in the sunlight, 700C -- 1292F - Dark red, 800C -- 1472F - Dull cherry-red, 900C -- 1652F - Cherry-red". Presumably keep it down to dark red? | |
| Jan 16, 2020 at 20:36 | comment | added | Technophile | "Overheated" for PETG in 3D printing would typically mean hours to weeks at up to 260°C. | |
| Aug 26, 2018 at 17:17 | history | edited | oliver | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
deleted 1 character in body
|
| Aug 26, 2018 at 17:10 | review | First posts | |||
| Aug 26, 2018 at 17:27 | |||||
| Aug 26, 2018 at 17:09 | history | answered | oliver | CC BY-SA 4.0 |